AS BRYCE WOULD SAY, “WHAT’S HAPPENING, PA?”

December 13, 2004

“Great eaters and great sleepers are incapable of anything else that is great.” – Henry IV of France

WELL, BRYCE, LOTS IS HAPPENING, on the dining scene these days. New places opening, some closings, and G and I have been dining out lots. FYI: Bryce is Son Primo’s oldest. He’s scheduled to tryout for the Bronco fullback spot, class of ’23.

I reported several months ago on Belmar, the downtown of Lakewood. Well, its even more exciting than even I, the proverbial optimist believed. The dining is not just good; it’s too good. I work a few blocks north of Belmar and live a few blocks south of Belmar. So I get to drive by it several times a day, and gee, it’s so damn convenient I wind up eating there far too often. Not only because I need to eat all over town, but it’s not good for my waste line or my pocketbook. G makes me do it. The average meal at Belmar is costing me about $400 for the two of us.

In a brief synopsis, Super Chef Mark Tarbell’s first store, The Oven (7167 W. Alaska Dr, 303/934-7600; www.tarbells.com) opened this week and is getting raves. Daughter Camille sez the thin-crust pizza is “just like we had in Italy”. And the gelato served atop the housemade apple pie is 2-die-4. Frisco’s Deli (7057 W. Alaska Dr, 303/936-3354; www.friscosdeli.com) will open next week. All this in addition to the throngs of shoppers walking the super-clean, tree-lined streets full of holiday decorations

Without much publicity, the first Friday they were open saw an hour plus wait at 6 pm at P.F. Chang’s (7210 W. Alameda Ave, 303/922-5800; www.pfchangs.com) and almost that long directly across the street at Ted’s Montana Grill (330 S. Teller St, 303/922-7770; www.tedsmontanagrill.com). Just down the street the tables at Johnny Rocket’s (450 S. Teller St, 303/922-7044; www.johnnyrockets.com) were full. The following week Elephant Bar Restaurant (7111 W. Alaska Dr, 303/922-7907; www.elephantbarrestaurant.com) opened to a packed house. They have a deal and a half for seniors: a big discount for gummers 60 and over.

Meanwhile, G and I managed to find three new (ish) eateries in the past two months, each having the same common theme: they all serve either American or Mediterranean and American fare, but each dish was unique. If you take a plain old (wonderful) rib eye steak and make it spectacular with sauces and herbs and spices, and accompany it with creative side dishes, then you have a potentially fabulous restaurant. That’s what Jennifer Jasinski does at Rioja and we found two others that do the same.

Rioja (1431 Larimer St, 303/820-2282; www.riojadenver.com), the brain child of Chef Jennifer Jasinski, former executive chef at Panzano’s and her partner, Beth Gruith-Verucchi, is going to knock your socks off. More about this great eatery in a later column. Suffice to say that the pasta is exquisite. Actually, the entire menu is exquisite and reasonably priced and they just opened last week. Try a cup of hot chocolate; you’ll never drink Nestles again. Oh, the maavelous beef dishes and the maavelous housemade chocolates. G and her lady friends report that the Sunday brunch is scrumptious. Shucks, ma’am, it’s all great. Go.

Opus (2575 W. Main St, 303/703-6787; http://restauranteur.com/opus) opened two years ago in downtown Littleton. Executive Chef Michael Long is as creative as any in town. Try the Sesame Seared Yellowfin Tuna, or the Crabcake Benedict. And if you want the most extensive Sunday brunch (not a buffet) in town, this is for you. Try Chef Long’s White Chocolate Pumpkin Cheesecake. Oh my!

Rhapsody on the Creek (1027 Washington Ave, Golden, 303/279-6671) opened in September. G and I have been there at least a half dozen times. It’s just simply wonderful. Everything from the exquisite Sunday brunches (not a buffet) to the maavelous creative dinners executed perfectly by Chef Chris Miracolo. And if you can find a better strudel than co-owner Petra Shramm makes next door in the family-owned bakery café, call me. More later.

ON THE “NOW OPEN” LIST: Somethin’ Else (1313 E. 6 Ave, 303/831-1992; Denver popular Chef Sean Kelly’s new eatery, opened a while back, and Denver Rocky Mountain News paid belly John Lehndorff gave it rave reviews. Sorry, Sean serves dinner only five nites. Glazed and Confuzed Doughnuts opened at 110 16th Street with an assortment of non-non-fattening and creative donuts. Dark cake with dark fudge? I’m there! The tele is 303/595-0222. Open 6 am to 1 pm, Monday thru Saturday. Tom Mirabito, one of muh fav chefs and the affable owner and chef of the fabulous eatery, Bruno’s Italian Bistro (2223 E. Monaco Pkwy, 303/757-4500; has finally acquired the space vacated by Holly Inn two doors away. He has opened La Fontana, serving Southwestern fare. I guess Tom can do a short jog two doors and stay in shape. By the by, am I the only columnist in town that can spell Tom’s name correctly? I guess other writers don’t care.

Ian Kleinman, the former fabulous chef at Hilltop Café, which closed several months ago, has returned to that space now open as Hilltop Bistro (1518 Washington St, Golden, 303/279-8151). The new owner is Michael Chin. Since G and I haven’t been here yet, it probably would be included in the list above as a super eatery with a creative menu. Ian’s soups are some of the finest anywhere. Where’s former owner J. Allen Adams? You don’t want to know.

Trapper’s Chop House has opened in Parker at 19308 Cottonwood Drive. Gelazzi Gelato Italiano Café is already open at 1411 Larimer Street. I love that stuff, but lots of “gelato” isn’t really; it’s ice cream. Gelato has less butterfat and less air than ice cream. Gotta watch them all the time. Brooks Smokehouse Bar-B-Que has opened at 2856 Fairfax Street (303/320-6234), next door to Joseph's Southern Food at 2868 Fairfax St, 303/333-5332. And Sansone's Bistro (5969 S. University Blvd., Littleton) is officially open. Owner/chef Robert Sansone took over Chez Walter’s space that closed recently after more than 20 years.

Also in Lakewood (G and I have been there with the kids) are Johnny’s New York Pizza (1000 S. Wadsworth Blvd, 303/935-8818) and Rayos Maavelous Dining (1050 S. Wadsworth Blvd, 303/922-4433). Both are great eateries with good service.

AND FOR THE “NOW GONE” LIST. G and I were really saddened at the passing of Brasserie Rouge, having just discovered it a few weeks before and fell deeply in love. Flow, the tiny upscale lounge in the Luna Hotel is gone, or should I say (are you ready for this?) Flow flew away. LOL. In its place is Nova Nouveau Fondue and Rotisserie Restaurant. Give it a month? Sage Southwestern Grill (323 14th Street) has closed it’s doors, but Café Berlin, the great German eatery will move from its 17th Street location to this space. Oh, those wondrous potato pancakes. Muh fav rib place has closed forever. Z-ribs, after several starts in two different locations, finally shuttered its Lakewood doors. Owner Ernie Gomez promises to be back next year in a new, highly visible location with his fab ribs and special green chili.

One of muh fav bugger joints, Max Burgerworks has closed in favor of co-owner Gerard Rudofsky opening a second Zaidy’s Deli in Max’s space. Lest it never be sed that I hold grudges forever, I will never enter that building again. Nor will I give that odious man a dime of my money. I am told that the Max Burgerworks kiosk on 16th Street will remain open. I didn’t even know there was one.

And that folks, as the rabbit sez, is a wrap.

Cya.