The belly is the reason why man does not mistake himself for a God.” – Friedrich Nietzsche
October 25, 2004
SO MANY PLACES TO EAT, SO LITTLE TIME. G and I have been overdoing it since we found out that we are expecting Grandchild # 5, due next May 2nd. Our reasoning has been something like, “Oh my gosh, soon we will be taking all our grandkids out to dinner and we better find some new places to take them.” Now this comes out of the wife of the man who, if he were to open his own restaurant, there would be no persons allowed under the age of 14. And then only by an adult who has a pass from the maitre d’ that certifies that the adult has been there before and that adult is not rude and obnoxious. Of course this is the same man who has taken his now ten-year-old nephew and his now four-year-old granddaughter to the finest restaurants since they have been age two. But these children know how to behave in restaurants cuz their parents taught them how to behave. Unlike many folks who have children who can’t behave cuz their parents don’t have a clue. And those folks ain’t coming into any joint I own or have anything to do with.
One of our new favs is Rhapsody on the Creek (1027 Washington Ave, Golden, 303/279-6671), which opened a scant seven weeks ago. The fare is American/European, with some German thrown in. Master Chef Owner Kurt Schramm and Executive Chef Chris Miracolo have teamed up to bring elegant fare at a reasonable price to this nifty town west of Denver. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday thru Saturday and brunch on Sunday, you’ll find creative dishes and ample portions served in a deliteful atmosphere. Maitre ‘d Nicholas Champion will greet you at the door and seat you in one of the two lovely dining rooms. Service is good and the menu changes monthly.
We’ve been to Ted’s Montana Grill lotsa times in the new Belmar, but I talked all about them last week. Ceptin’ I did have a salmon salad last nite and it were mighty fine. Got out of muh bugger rut. Then went to the new Century Theatre to catch a movie. Then to Johnny Rockets for some dessert, all at Belmar.
G and I had dinner Saturday nite at Brasserie Rouge (1801 Wynkoop St, 303/991-2242; www.brasserierouge.com) where my good friend, John Imbergamo, guru of the local restaurant PR folks, has been after me to try for months. When he called the other day to tell me that they were now serving lunch five days and late dinner until 10 pm during the week and 11 pm on weekends, G and I decided to head there for dinner. It was so good that we promise to make it a regular dining spot. They have a deliteful, warm set of rooms, altho it certainly can get noisy when the place is full, but the food and service made us forget that it was a little difficult to hear each other talk. When I saw the fairly looo entrée prices I expected small portions as is typical in many French eateries. But that was not the case. G had a super size Grilled Double Cut Pork Chop dinner and I had a good portion of perfectly prepared Steak Frites (flank steak and french fries), $16 per dinner.
I’ve really been feasting at Cherry Creek Mall a lot lately, mainly at Kona Grill (3000 E. 1st Ave, 720/974-1300; www.konagrill.com). Man, I can’t stay away from the place and I can’t get to try something other than the Big Kahuna Cheese Bugger. It’s a whopping 14 oz of beef served on a not-so-good Kaiser roll with cheese and sautéed onions. The dang bun gets so soggy you ought to tell the W to leave off the bun, or put it on the side. The fries aren’t particularly good, but if you order the Asian cole slaw you’ll think you’ve died and gone to heaven. Particularly if you follow with the passion fruit crème brûlée that I think is 2-die-4. My staff assistant, Melanie, was there last week and reported back that the Macadamia Nut Pie is fantabulous. Service is as good as any in town. I think this is a really classy place.
I got to go to one of the pre-openings at Elway’s Restaurant (2500 E. 1st Ave, 303/399-5353; www.elways.com). One heck of a lot of $$ went into that place I think the room is gorgeous but it’s the food you go there for. And a chance to see “The Man”. Yes, John was there Monday nite as I’m sure he’ll be there lots. Let me tellya. The guy ain’t that big folks. And since he’s probably out of shape, I could probably take him. Dr. Stan has me working out. Well, Dr. Stan told me to work out. Get some exercise. So I have. Been driving all over town lately. Anywho, between veteran restaurateur Tom Moxcey and Tim Schmidt, former owner of 16 Black-Eyed Peas, this place is gonna hummmm. The menu features prime steaks, seafood, and innovative accompaniments. Howsabout a bone-in swordfish chop? I’m told the creamed corn is really yummy, altho I ain’t even gonna try it. And for those of you who want something sweet after dinner but are too full for dessert. There’s these tiny dessert “samplers” you can buy for a buck. Cool! I thought the place was really cool when I saw Norm Brownstein sitting outside and I thought maybe he was the valet. He did offer to get my car.
I’ve been lunching at Café Del Sol (608 Garrison St, 303/238-7999) a lot of late, cuz they have one of the best buggers along with some of the best french fries in town. You can check out their menu on line at www.deliverybyjeeves.com/pdf/86CafeDelSol.pdf. Melanie goes there for just the fries and most anything else that goes with fries. She’s a frieadict (new word I just created).
ON THE NEW LIST: Just got the new menu from Bridgewater Grill in the Golden Hotel (800 11th St, Golden, 303/279-2010; www.thegoldenhotel.com). Looks mighty yummy. The hotel has new owners who really want to have fun and want the guests to do the same. That means y’all. And having fun includes great dining. Nothing fancy, just a great Colorado hotel with a fine western décor and a menu to match. The ribs are supposed to be really yummy. Gotta try the pan roasted black mussels and the Angus bugger.
Speaking of really yummy ribs, we got a couple of slabs along with all the housemade fixin’s at Piggin’ Out Bar-B-Que (9987 Morrison Rd, 303/988-2749). Oh my, maybe the best spud salad and baked beans in town, not to mention some fantastic meaty smoked ribs. Only open ‘til 7 pm and you’d better call ahead cuz he sometimes runs out of grub.
Jennifer Jasinski’s new eatery, Cava, is getting mighty close to opening on Larimer Street. Gonna be before the Holidays. Watch this column for the latest. It’s gonna knock your socks off cuz this chef is one of America’s Best.
ON THE CLOSED LIST. What cudda been the best rib place in town closed after serious efforts to attract the neighborhood folks to dine in or order out. Z-Ribs (8590 W. Colfax Ave) is gone. NMMNG was told that they’re going to open in a classier spot sometime next year. The man sure does know how to cook ribs.
Cya.
You can write to dining critic Jay Fox as well as read his most recent columns at www.jayfoxcpa.com.